Writer's Block Roussanne 2009

Roussanne is closely associated with the Rhone region of France, where it is grown in such well-known appellations as Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage in the North, and further South in the Châteauneuf du Pape and Côtes du Rhône appellations. Many Châteauneuf du Pape white table wines use a large percentage of Roussanne. The varietal is also successfully grown throughout California, in parts of Washington State, Australia, and Italy. Descriptors such as floral, pear, herbal, spicy, viscous, nutty, and rich are fairly common of varietal Roussanne wines, appearing in varying proportions depending on the where the fruit is grown. We have found the wines produced from this varietal in Lake County tend to include all the classic descriptors, as well as a few particular to the individual vineyard itself. As this is the second vintage of Roussanne we have produced at Steele, the ageability of these wines will take some years to critique.

VINEYARD

Planted by Randy Krag and Erica Lindquist, two very involved and professional growers, this vineyard is located in the Bachelor Valley of Lake County, approximately 20 minutes northwest of the intersection of Highway 29 and Highway 20. The vineyard was planted in 2002. It is approximately 14 acres in total area, 7 acres of which are Roussanne and 7 acres Sauvignon Blanc. Due to the viticultural conditions of Lake County, and this vineyard specifically, these two varietals can grow very well next to each other, although are generally harvested on different dates (Roussanne late, Sauv. Blanc early). As this is the second consecutive vintage we have received grapes from this vineyard, we are still very much in the developing phase of understanding the stylistic options and appropriate winemaking techniques to apply to these grapes. We are excited about the quality of fruit being grown by Randy and Erica, and the two vintages of wines from these grapes that we have made here at Steele.

WINEMAKING

The actual winemaking work done to these grapes was fairly minimal. As with most white wines of the winery, the quality of the varietals and vineyards speak for themselves through traditional barrel fermentations and extended lees-contact aging. After being crushed and pressed to tank, the Roussanne was racked to French and Hungarian barrels, approximately 15% new (the remaining 85% being between 2-3 years old), where primary fermentation took place below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The primary fermentation was followed by complete malolactic fermentation, during which time the barrels were occasionally stirred; both to protect the young wine from premature oxidation, and to enrich the wine by the constituent components released by yeast autolysis (yeast dying) that gravity had deposited in the lees. We considered fermenting a small percentage of the entire lot in a stainless steel tank to adjust the wine to a leaner, if you will elongated style, but the vintage conditions provided this stylistic difference for us so this technique was not required.

The 2007 Roussanne was aged in the barrels in which it was fermented for approximately 9 months. The aging period was carried out sur-lees with occasional stirring. A fairly low level of SO2 was maintained throughout this period to aid in the development of secondary and tertiary aromatic and flavor components. The 2007 Roussanne includes small percentages (approximately 7% total) of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc.

HARVEST

The 2007 harvest was dispersed in general, as a cooling trend and precipitation beginning around the middle of September changed the immediate perspective for some varietals. As Roussanne tends to ripen a bit later, it was subject to some rain The decision to pick was timed to avoid potential rot in the vineyard. We waited, perhaps to the dismay of Randy and Erica, although the result is clearly evidenced in the quality of the wine. In truth, the weather made some stylistic decisions for us that we had considered applying to the winemaking process. As a slightly leaner style, due in part to the late precipitation and final cooler weeks of ripening, I believe the 2007 vintage will be a stylistic model for all future vintages from this vineyard. Ultimately the fruit was ripe, the acidity bright, and the leaner vintage allowed a more significant appreciation of varietal characteristics.

TASTING NOTES (8/21/08 Quincy Steele/Claudia Masini)

            AROMATICS/FLAVORS:

                        slight toasty French oak

white flowers

                        pear

                        honey

                        cucumber

                        green tea

                        orange zest

                        citrus (other general)

                        lactic (general i.e. milk)

                        spice (finish)

                        balanced acidity

A medium to full bodied white wine, with a characteristically rich, slightly oily texture, bright acidity and very good integration of acid, slightly spicy finish after a complex and interesting aromatic profile. Special balance for a young wine, mid-palate shows a lean acid structure before inherent richness of the varietal shows itself through a significant and pleasurably dry finish.